What is my camera worth right now?

This guide gives a fast estimate and a clear step‑by‑step method to find a fair market price. It covers resale, trade‑in, insurance replacement, and collector value.

We show where to check real sold prices — eBay, MPB, forums and local listings. You’ll also get checklists, photo tips, and a worked example to calculate net proceeds.

Read on to follow simple steps you can do in under an hour. Start by gathering your exact model, shutter count, condition photos and any accessories.

What Is My Camera Worth?

There isn’t a single number that answers what is my camera worth, because value moves with model, condition, shutter count, accessories, and demand. The fastest way to estimate it is to find at least five recent sold listings of the same camera in similar condition and take the median. That gives you a realistic resale value today, not a hopeful asking price.

To show the range, here are three quick real-world snapshots from recent sold listings. A Nikon D750 body in good condition often sells for about $550 to $700 depending on wear and shutter count. A Canon PowerShot SX540 HS kit commonly lands around $150 to $200, while a Contax T2 in clean working order can fetch roughly $900 to $1,200 because of collector demand.

Resale price is what a private buyer will pay you, and it’s usually the highest number if you sell yourself. Trade-in value is what a dealer pays you, which is lower but quick and safe. Insurance replacement cost reflects what it takes to buy the same item from a retailer today, which is often higher than street prices. Collector or auction value can exceed normal resale when rarity and provenance push demand.

Before you estimate, gather details that shape price. Write down the exact model and variant, body-only or kit, shutter count, cosmetic and functional condition, and every included accessory. Add the original box, manual, warranty status, receipts, and any service history you have.

Snapshot for the next five minutes: confirm your exact model, take clear photos of condition, and pull up sold results for the last 30 to 90 days. Then decide if you want a quick trade-in or a higher private-sale path, and move to the step-by-step method below. If you want a second opinion along the way, this helpful camera worth guide explains how collectors view value too.

How to Determine the Value of Your Camera

Start with the exact model and configuration. Write the full name, such as “Fujifilm X-T3 Body,” and add the serial number, firmware version, and whether it is body-only or includes a lens. Note lens model(s), mount, battery grip, number of batteries, charger, cables, and whether the original packaging is present.

Be precise about variants, because small differences move price. A Sony a7 III and a7C are not interchangeable in searches, and a kit lens changes comps. If your camera has a third-party grip or L-bracket, record it because it can add value for some buyers.

Now check mechanical and functional status. Find the shutter count if your model tracks it, either in EXIF data of a fresh JPEG or with the manufacturer’s utility. Confirm autofocus accuracy, metering, hot shoe and flash sync, card slots, USB or HDMI ports, and that the battery holds a charge.

Inspect the sensor for dust or scratches. Shoot a test frame at f/16 against a bright sky or white wall to reveal spots. Confirm the LCD is bright and free of dead pixels, and that buttons and dials are responsive and not sticky.

Document cosmetic condition with dated photos under good light. Photograph the top-plate, bottom-plate, front, back, and both sides, plus the lens mount area and card and battery compartments. Show any paint wear, brassing, dents, or rubber peeling so you can compare honestly to sold listings.

If this is a film camera, add notes on foam light seals, shutter curtain condition, and viewfinder clarity. If you see fungus or haze in a lens, write it down. Being explicit saves time and helps you price correctly.

Collect comparable sold prices across several platforms. Aim for a small dataset of five to ten sales from the last 30 to 90 days. Match configuration first (body-only versus kit), then condition, then similar shutter count and included accessories.

Use the same naming convention in your notes so you can sort and compare. Keep the model name as it appears in listings to avoid mixing in different versions. The closer the match, the stronger your estimate.

Build a simple spreadsheet so you can see the pattern. Use columns in this order: platform, listing title, sold price, shipping, date sold, condition, shutter count, included items, and URL if you want to save the source. Add a notes column for differences you’ll need to adjust for, like a grip or extra battery.

Start with the median sold price and adjust for condition and extras. Mint or like-new sets can justify about five to fifteen percent above median because buyers pay for near-zero wear. Fair condition or minor defects usually drop price by about fifteen to twenty-five percent, and “for parts” can be thirty to forty percent down or more.

Shutter count and known issues also shift value. A mid-life shutter near the manufacturer’s rating might reduce price by around ten percent compared to a low-count copy. A recently serviced or calibrated camera can bump value because it lowers risk for the buyer.

Calculate your expected net, not just your sale price. Use a simple formula so you are not surprised later: Estimated net = expected sale price − marketplace fees − payment fees − shipping and insurance − repair or cleaning costs − packaging. Check each platform’s current fee schedule before you list, because rates change.

Here is a worked example you can follow. Say you want to sell a Fujifilm X-T3 body-only in good condition with 26k actuations, two batteries, a charger, strap, and original box. You gather five close comps sold between mid‑August and mid‑October 2025: $500, $520, $540, $560, and $585 for similar condition and body-only.

Those five results give a median of $540. Your camera has an extra battery and the box, which often nudges value a few percent, while a small scuff on the baseplate might pull it back a touch. A fair adjustment is plus three percent for extras and minus two percent for minor wear, which lands you around $545 to $555.

Pick a working target of $555 because it splits the range and still looks fair in search results. Now run the net. If you use a marketplace that totals about thirteen percent in fees, that’s roughly $72. Add $22 for shipping and insurance and $6 for packing supplies, and assume no repair cost. Your estimated net is $555 − $72 − $22 − $6 = $455.

If you are considering a light service or sensor cleaning, include it in the math. A pro sensor clean might cost $40, which is worth it if dust is visible at f/16 and would scare buyers. Add that cost only if it raises the expected sale price by more than the fee and your time.

If you want the fast route, get a trade-in quote and compare. Trade-in figures for this model might land around $400 for good condition depending on the buyer and timing. That is lower than a private sale net, but there is no shipping to a customer and no risk of returns.

Write your estimate down as a range so you have room to negotiate. In this case, a private sale list price of $579 with offers on and a minimum acceptable of $455 net gives you a clear line. If offers arrive below your net, you can counter or wait without second guessing.

Factors That Affect Camera Value

Condition drives price more than almost anything else. Clean cosmetics, crisp buttons, and a spotless sensor make buyers comfortable paying more. Deep scratches, dents, peeling rubber, or visible sensor spots pull bids down fast.

Shutter count tells a buyer how much mechanical life might be left. Many enthusiast bodies are rated around 100k to 200k actuations, so a camera at 15k looks lightly used while one at 120k looks near end-of-life. If your model has electronic shutter use, document that too because it does not wear the mechanical shutter.

Age and generation matter because tech moves quickly. Newer mirrorless bodies with strong autofocus and video features hold value better than older entry‑level DSLRs. A camera that got a successor last month may dip until the market stabilizes.

Market demand and timing push prices up or down. A popular lens mount or a viral TikTok trend can lift specific models for a few months. Around holidays and graduation season, demand for beginner kits rises and used prices often tick up.

Brand and model reputation also shape resale. Pro bodies like a Nikon D850 or Canon 5D Mark IV tend to hold value longer due to proven reliability. Limited editions or historically important models can get a collector premium if condition is excellent.

Accessories and provenance make a listing stand out. Original box, manuals, a fresh battery, a genuine charger, and a clean strap can add perceived value. Receipts, service records, and warranty transfer info reduce buyer risk and help your price.

Lens compatibility and system ecosystem affect how fast a camera sells. A body that uses widely adopted mounts or adapts lenses well pulls a larger buyer pool. Niche systems can take longer and may require sharper pricing.

Firmware support and known defects get attention from savvy buyers. Cameras that received major autofocus or stability fixes through firmware can be safer bets. Known issues like overheating or card slot failures suppress price unless you disclose a fix.

Regional and seasonal factors can be subtle but real. A currency swing can pull cross‑border buyers into or out of the market. Local demand spikes around school terms, travel seasons, and holiday gifting windows.

If you are choosing between repair and selling as-is, run a quick test. Estimate the price increase after the repair and subtract the repair cost; if the result is positive with a little margin for your time, fix it. If not, sell as‑is and price it fairly based on “for parts” or “needs service” comps.

If you suspect collector value, step back before listing. Look for rarity, historical importance, mint condition, and the full set of box and papers. In those cases, consult a specialist dealer or an auction house to avoid underselling a gem.

Checking Used Camera Prices Online

Start with eBay because it offers the broadest pool of sold data. Type your exact model followed by “body only” or the kit lens name if it applies, then open filters and switch to “Sold items.” Set the time range to the last 30 to 90 days so you are not skewed by old sales.

Filter out “For parts or not working” when you want normal resale comps. If you are pricing a faulty camera, do the opposite and include only “for parts” results. Open several listings to compare photos and descriptions, because sellers grade condition differently.

Use exact search phrases to speed things up. Try “Nikon D750 body only sold,” “Sony a6400 with 16‑50 sold,” or “Contax T2 sold.” If there are too many results, add the color or a key accessory name to narrow it down.

Match apples to apples when you record comps. A body-only price will be lower than a kit with a lens, and a high shutter count should not be compared to mint copies. Add shipping cost to the sold price so your dataset reflects the total paid by the buyer.

MPB and KEH publish graded used listings and buy prices. Their grades like Mint, Excellent, and Good help you translate your condition into market speak. Their buy or trade-in numbers show what a fast, low-friction sale might pay today.

B&H and Adorama used pages show certified used pricing that sits above private sales but below new retail. Those prices signal what it costs to replace your item with a warranty from a retailer. You can also request trade-in numbers right now to benchmark a floor, for example if you want to sell your gear quickly.

Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist can be great for local cash sales. You avoid shipping cost and platform fees, but there’s less price transparency. Compare local asking prices to your eBay sold data so you do not anchor on inflated list prices.

Camera forums and subreddits like dedicated buy‑sell communities often host gear-savvy buyers. Prices there skew a bit higher when sellers have strong feedback and detailed photos. If your item is specialized, that audience may pay better than general platforms.

For rare or collectible items, look at auction houses and specialist dealers. Their catalogs reveal where true collector value sits, especially for mint boxed examples. Remember that auction fees exist on both sides, so compare net, not just the hammer price.

Track at least five comps before you decide. Take the median rather than the highest outlier, and ignore stale data older than a few months. Convert currencies when you pull international comps and adjust for shipping so the numbers are comparable.

If you want a quick text recipe, here it is. Search exact model, filter to sold, set time window, exclude parts units unless your item is broken, and read each listing to match condition and accessories. Log five to ten results, take the median, and then apply small adjustments for your condition and extras.

How to Sell Your Camera for the Best Price

Choose your selling route based on time versus money. A trade-in or instant buyer is fast, safe, and predictable but pays less. A private sale can net the most if you invest in photos, a clear listing, and safe shipping.

Consignment and auction houses make sense for rare models or mint collector sets. The right venue brings the right eyes and lifts bids when demand is specialized. Fees apply, so compare the expected net before you commit.

Prepare the camera so buyers feel confident. Test everything and write a short report that covers autofocus, meter, ports, and card slots, then take a fresh sample image to prove function. Clean the body, clean the sensor if needed, charge batteries, and gather the box, manuals, cables, receipt, and any spare batteries or grips.

Reset the camera and remove accounts, Wi‑Fi info, and personal data. Set the date and time correctly because it shows in EXIF on your sample image. Add your shutter count and firmware version to the notes so buyers do not need to ask.

Photograph the gear like a product. Use a neutral background and soft light, then shoot front, back, top, bottom, sides, lens mount, battery bay, and card slots. Include close‑ups of any scuffs and a shot of the serial number, plus a sample photo taken today.

Write a listing that is specific and honest. A clear headline works well, like “Fujifilm X‑T3 — Body Only — 26k Shutter — Excellent — Two Batteries.” In the description, repeat the exact model, condition, shutter count, included items, known flaws, and your shipping, payment, and return terms.

Price with strategy, not guesswork. Set a Buy It Now slightly above your target so you can accept offers and still hit your net, or choose auction only when demand is hot and photos are excellent. Decide your firm minimum net before you list so you don’t accept a loss under pressure.

Negotiate with data, not emotion. If someone lowballs, reply politely with your comps and your included extras to justify your price. If you are not in a rush, hold the line for a few days and let the listing work.

Pack it like you care because shipping damage costs more than bubble wrap. Place the camera in a clean bag, add wrap around all sides, and float it in padding inside a sturdy box. Double‑box for higher value items, include silica to reduce moisture, tape all seams, and mark it fragile.

Insure the package for the full sale value and require a signature on delivery for expensive items. Photograph the packed box before you ship and save the receipt. For international orders, declare accurate value and include any required paperwork.

Protect yourself on payments. For local deals, meet in a public place like a bank lobby and take cash only, no checks or gift cards. On online platforms, use managed payments or a protected processor and never ship before funds clear.

Watch for classic red flags. Avoid buyers who offer to overpay, who want you to ship to a different address than the one on the order, or who push you to transact off-platform. Keep all communication inside the platform for protection.

After the sale, send tracking and confirm delivery. Keep your photos of the packed box and save messages until feedback posts. State a fair return policy in your listing so expectations are set before money changes hands.

If convenience matters most, compare a few instant offers before you list yourself. It takes a minute to get a quote and see your guaranteed number. Use that figure as a floor, and only choose a private sale if your expected net will clearly beat it.

Run the numbers once more before you publish. Your simple net formula keeps you honest: Estimated net = asking price × (1 − fee rate) − shipping − insurance − packaging − any promised accessories you might need to buy. When the math lines up with your target, your listing is ready to go.

What People Ask Most

Final Thoughts on What Your Camera Is Worth

We opened by answering the simple question — what is my camera worth — with a quick estimate and a clear roadmap you can follow. The guide walked you through resale vs trade-in vs insurance and collector value, plus the practical steps (gather exact model and shutter count, pull 5–10 recent sold comps, and adjust for condition and fees), so guesswork becomes a repeatable, evidence-based price, and even a single sold result marked 270 on eBay can shift your estimate. That practical method helps weekend shooters, working pros, small resellers, and collectors decide whether to sell now, hold, or invest in repairs.

Be realistic: platform fees, shipping, repair costs and shifting demand will cut into what you actually pocket, and not every repair pays back its bill. Use the step-by-step checklist, the comparables approach, and the photo/listing advice we covered to avoid common mistakes, set a smart price, and choose the right selling route. Keep testing the market with clear photos and honest listings, and you’ll get sharper at valuing and selling gear with every try — the next sale will be smoother and wiser.