What is a good DPI for scanning photos — 300, 600, or more?

This article answers what is a good DPI for scanning photos. It explains DPI choices for web, prints, slides, and archival scans in plain language.

You will get a short TL;DR, a simple formula to pick DPI, recommended ranges by photo type, and file-size examples. There are also before/after crop examples and a printer-friendly checklist to follow.

By the end you will know which DPI to choose and how to scan for the best balance of quality and file size. Let’s get started.

TL;DR: what is a good dpi for scanning photos depends on use—scan paper photos at 300 DPI for everyday prints and sharing, 600 DPI for archiving or enlargements, and 2400–4000 DPI for slides/negatives if your scanner’s optics can resolve it.

Understanding DPI and Photo Scanning

DPI means dots per inch and it is the sampling setting your scanner uses to capture detail from a physical photo. PPI means pixels per inch and it describes how dense those pixels will be when displayed or printed.

When you scan, DPI directly controls the pixel dimensions of the file. The simple mapping is Pixels = DPI × physical size in inches, so a 4×6 at 300 DPI makes 1200×1800 pixels, and at 600 DPI it becomes 2400×3600 pixels.

Optical resolution is the true capability of the scanner’s lens and sensor. Interpolated resolution is software upscaling that creates more pixels but not more real detail, so it is rarely useful for quality work.

Bit depth matters too. An 8‑bit per channel scan (24‑bit color) holds 256 levels per channel, while 16‑bit per channel (48‑bit color) holds far more tonal steps, which is valuable for editing and restoration.

Quality is more than DPI alone. The condition of the original, the scanner optics, sensor noise, and dynamic range all affect the final result, and these factors often limit visible detail before DPI does.

Look at the crop in the image above: at 600 DPI, fine texture and grain are sampled more cleanly than at 300 DPI, which helps if you plan to restore or enlarge. A short comprehensive guide can help you compare these variables if you are still learning.

Determining the Best DPI for Scanning Photos (answers the keyword)

Here is the quick answer in one line: 300 DPI for everyday prints and sharing, 600 DPI for archiving or enlargements, and 2400–4000 DPI for slides and small negatives—especially in 2026 when storage is cheap and scanners are capable.

For web or social media, you can target pixel dimensions rather than DPI, but scanning at 150–300 DPI on a 4×6 is usually enough. Many people scan at 300 or 600, then export smaller JPEGs for posting.

For standard prints such as 4×6, 5×7, or 8×10, 300 DPI is a trusted default. It yields sharp prints at normal viewing distances without creating oversized files.

For enlargements or archiving, 600 DPI is the sweet spot for most paper photos. It captures extra texture and grain you can use for restoration, and it gives you headroom for moderate enlargements.

For slides and 35mm negatives, start around 2500–3200 DPI if your scanner has good optics. Very high settings like 4000 DPI help only if the scanner’s optical resolution and the film’s grain actually support it.

If you are unsure and have storage space, scan paper photos at 600 DPI and save a master TIFF. You can always make smaller JPEG versions later for sharing and quick prints.

You can choose DPI with one simple formula: Required scan DPI = (Target print PPI × Target print width in inches) / Original width in inches. Use 300 PPI as your target print density for high quality prints.

Here is a worked example. A 4×6 original that you want to print at 8×12 inches at 300 PPI needs (300 × 8) ÷ 4 = 600 DPI on the scan, which is why 600 DPI is great for enlargements.

Another example in the real world is a 3×5 snapshot you want as a 12×20 poster at 300 PPI; you need (300 × 12) ÷ 3 = 1200 DPI on the long side. A 5×7 to a 10×14 at 300 PPI also lands at 600 DPI using the same math.

Beware diminishing returns. Scanning far above your scanner’s optical resolution, or much above 600 DPI for paper prints, often makes files larger without adding visible detail, which is why the honest answer to what is a good dpi for scanning photos always depends on your goal and your gear.

Best resolution for scanning different photo formats

For standard prints like 4×6, 5×7, and 8×10, 300–600 DPI covers most needs. Use 300 for same‑size reprints and 600 when you want an archival master or plan to enlarge.

For small or wallet‑sized prints, 600–1200 DPI makes sense. Small originals need more samples per inch to capture fine detail that would otherwise vanish.

For large prints over 8×10, 300–400 DPI is fine for same‑size reproduction. If you plan heavy restoration or big enlargements, consider 600 DPI as a master.

For 35mm slides and negatives, ~2400–3600 DPI is a practical range. Go higher only if the scanner’s optics and the film’s grain can resolve the extra detail.

For medium or large format film, 1200–2400 DPI usually yields a lot of pixels because the film area is big. You can get huge files with excellent detail even at the lower end of that range.

Compact reference, written out in plain text so you can copy it: Format — DPI range — Use‑case — Sample pixels. 4×6 print — 300–600 — reprint/archive — 1200×1800 at 300; 2400×3600 at 600. 2×3 wallet — 600–1200 — preserve tiny detail — 1200×1800 at 600; 2400×3600 at 1200. 8×10 print — 300–600 — reprint/enlarge — 2400×3000 at 300; 4800×6000 at 600. 35mm slide — 2400–3600 — high detail — about 3400×2200 at 2400; ~4530×3020 at 3200. 6×6 cm film — 1200–2400 — big negatives — about 2830×2830 at 1200; ~5660×5660 at 2400.

Always check your scanner’s true optical DPI and do a quick test at two settings to judge your sweet spot. This kind of hands‑on understanding DPI will save you time and storage.

How scanning DPI affects file size and quality

When you double the DPI, you double the pixels on each side, which quadruples total pixel count. That jump also tends to quadruple file size before compression.

A 4×6 at 300 DPI is 1200×1800 pixels, or about 2.16 megapixels. As an uncompressed 8‑bit per channel TIFF, that is around 6.5 MB, or about 13 MB at 16‑bit per channel.

The same 4×6 at 600 DPI is 2400×3600 pixels, or about 8.64 megapixels. Uncompressed, you are looking at roughly 26 MB at 8‑bit per channel and about 52 MB at 16‑bit per channel.

Plain text file‑size examples you can keep handy: 4×6 at 300 DPI, 8‑bit TIFF ≈ 6.5 MB; 4×6 at 300 DPI, 16‑bit TIFF ≈ 13 MB. 4×6 at 600 DPI, 8‑bit TIFF ≈ 26 MB; 4×6 at 600 DPI, 16‑bit TIFF ≈ 52 MB.

Compression and format choices change those numbers. TIFF is ideal for lossless archiving, TIFF with LZW or ZIP saves space without quality loss, JPEG is lossy but good for delivery, and PNG is lossless but not ideal for photographic masters.

As you weigh quality and storage, remember diminishing returns and your scanner’s true capability. For more context on balancing DPI and real‑world results, see this piece on how DPI affects scans.

Choosing the Right Setting for Your Photo Scanner (practical checklist + tips)

Start with prep. Clean the scanner glass, remove dust from prints with a blower or soft brush, and lay photos flat; use film holders for slides and negatives to keep them perfectly aligned.

Use optical resolution rather than interpolated settings. Pick 300 DPI for quick reprints, 600 DPI for archival or enlargements, and 2400–4000 DPI for slides and small negatives if your scanner’s optics justify it.

Scan in color even for black‑and‑white originals unless you know you need 16‑bit grayscale; color captures paper tone and stains that can be corrected later. For restoration work, 16‑bit per channel gives you more editing headroom; for speed, 8‑bit per channel is fine.

Do a preview, set an accurate crop, and avoid scanning large blank margins. If your scanner supports dust and scratch removal like Digital ICE, try it on prints and test cautiously on film to ensure it is not smearing grain or detail.

Turn off heavy automatic sharpening and color correction if you plan to edit in software later. If you want quick scans with minimal post‑work, gentle auto settings can be helpful.

Save your master files as TIFF and embed the ICC profile so color remains consistent. Make JPEG derivatives for email, the web, or quick lab prints, and keep the masters untouched.

For negatives and slides, choose the film scanning mode, set the correct film type, and use holders to keep film flat. If you have thousands of slides, consider a dedicated film scanner or a professional service to save time.

Build a simple workflow you can repeat. Use a naming convention with dates and subjects, batch‑scan related items, keep one master folder and a separate folder for derivatives, and back up to a cloud drive or offsite disk.

Finally, test before committing. Scan one representative photo at 300 and 600 (or a slide at 2400 and 3200), inspect 100% crops, and pick the setting that preserves detail without bloating your files, which is the most practical way to answer what is a good dpi for scanning photos for your specific project.

What People Ask Most

Final Thoughts on DPI and Photo Scanning

Whether you’re rescuing shoebox prints or digitizing slides, this guide helps you pick a DPI that balances detail with file practicality; if one number sticks, besides 270, think 300 for general use. It shows how to scale scans for prints, archives, or online sharing and gives simple formulas so you won’t guess. Hobbyists, family archivists, and small-time pros will get the most from these practical rules.

A real caution: scanning past your scanner’s optical limit or hoarding massive masters adds storage headaches without new detail, and originals’ condition matters too. In the opening I asked whether higher DPI always means better results; the piece answered by laying out when higher sampling helps — slides, tiny originals, and archival work — and when it doesn’t.

Do the quick 300 vs 600 test, keep a master TIFF, and you’ll learn what your gear can really do. You’re set to rescue and enjoy those images for years to come.